Fresh Today

Is there no end to this city's worship of the dark roasted bean? Do coffee cups have handles? This week's java jottings: Mauro Cipolla, Italian-born owner of Caffe Mauro, which recently opened its first retail outlet, at Second Avenue and Virginia Street, is planning to share his knowledge during the Academy of Coffee, a two-hour course from 5 to 7 p.m. each Wednesday beginning Aug. 7 at the new store. He started the business out of his home garage in 1985, wholesaling to local restaurants . . . . Burgess Espresso Carts & Machines of Bellevue is the sole United States parts distributor for Faema of Milan, Italy, the world's leading manufacturer of espresso machines. "It's just one more indication of the Northwest's dominance in the espresso industry," says Bob Burgess, president of the firm....Starbucks Coffee and Ste. Michelle Winery conducted a tasting Monday afternoon "to experience the wedding of fine coffees and wines" by pairing complementary varietals and vintages.

SAY CHEESE

While Little Miss Muffet is eating her bowl of curds and whey, you can be enjoying some more sophisticated variations at the Washington Home Cheesemaking Workshop, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Aug. 24 at the Sheraton Seattle Hotel & Towers. The New England Cheesemaking Supply Co. of Ashfield, Mass., is presenting this hands-on program, led by co-owner Robert Carroll, author of "Cheesemaking Made Easy."

By the end of the workshop, participants will have made a variety of cheeses from cow and goat milk, including Gouda, mascarpone and ricotta. ($75; New England Cheesemaking Supply Co., 85 Main St., Ashfield, Ma. 01330, (413) 628-3808.

RESTAURANTOURING

Campagne in the Pike Place Market is featured in the current issue of Eating Well magazine, with high praise for the kitchen staff's ways with salmon and halibut and the recipe for a house specialty, Rabbit Marinated in Cider and Peppercorns . . . . The Brooklyn Cafe & Oyster Bar Lounge is preparing for its Salmon Festival all next month, featuring chinook, coho, sockeye, white king and chum, and outdoor barbecues (weather permitting) weekdays from 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and 4 to 7 p.m. Proceeds from some of the special events will be donated to the Seattle Aquarium. The Brooklyn has a new pastry chef, Kevin Ono, whose specialties include Espresso Cream Cake, a layering of white chiffon, espresso cream and butter cream . . . . Pete's Pizza has opened at 5301 Roosevelt Way N.E., serving the same varieties of calzone that have been specialties at the restaurant's location near Gonzaga University in Spokane for 20 years . . . . The National Turkey Federation has awarded Sharps Fresh Roasting, near the Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, its best product award for Fruitwood Roasted Turkey, smoked for two hours and slow roasted for 14 to 18 hours in the Radiant Roaster. Manager Jeff Porter says the turkey breast is "by far" the restaurant's best seller . . . . Chef Kerry Sear of the Four Seasons Olympic Hotel has revamped the menu for Shuckers. Crab Quesadillas with Pepper Salsa is a popular starter at this restaurant specializing in seafood.

LOCAL CROPS

From the Market Fresh Report at the Pike Place Market: Washington apricots beat peaches into the stalls by a few days last week. Usually peaches ripen first, according to Susie Manzo of Sosio's. The first local blueberries are available, but basil is in short supply. Sue Verdi of Verdi's Produce will be taking bulk orders for your pesto-making parties in about two weeks . . . . Downtown Tacoma will have a Farmers Market from noon to 7 p.m. every Thursday, Aug. 1 through Oct. 3, with about 50 vendors on both sides of Broadway between Seventh and Eighth Streets. Market manager Nick Peters says produce and fruit from Pierce County farms will be featured, including organically grown vegetables.

Fresh Today by Larry Brown appears Wednesday in the Food section of The Times.