Chinese Restaurant: Big Place, Big Menu

Warren Chinn's Dynasties Restaurant, 30315 Pacific Highway S., Federal Way. 11 a.m. to midnight Monday through Saturday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday. Credit cards accepted. 839-8190 (Tacoma-area residents can call toll-free at 927-6232).

Size counts, sometimes. It can be an attention-grabber, a looming presence, a place of plenty.

When it comes to restaurants, Warren Chinn's Dynasties in Federal Way promises all three.

Housed in a former movie theater, it seats 350 people, not including a lounge.

Even the menu is an exercise in largess. It contains about 100 dishes - everything from traditional Chinese cuisine such as fried rice and egg foo young to more exotic fare such as boneless chicken with black bean sauce ($8.75) and prawns in lobster sauce ($10.95). American fare, including steaks, also is available.

But the Dynasties' size can be a disadvantage as much as an advantage. Because it is so big, its ambiance is anything but warm. One could even say the atmosphere is downright mausoleum-like. And the frugal decor - Oriental artwork on the walls - provides little in comfort.

Patrons don't seem to mind, however. They arrive not in twos or threes, but in parties of dozens sometimes. On weekends, especially, the place is jammed, and the parking lot out front looks like Interstate 5 during rush hour.

The attraction is the Chinese food, featuring Szechwan and Cantonese. Popular dishes include the sweet and sour cod fish ($8.50); sweet and sour pork, ($7.25); half-chicken marinated with ginger, garlic, soy sauce and wine ($8); and barbecued pork loins served with mustard and sesame seeds ($6.50).

A typical dinner starts with an appetizer, ranging from $3.95 fried won tons, $3.95 egg rolls, or a $6.75 combination plate of barbecued pork, egg rolls, drum sticks, shrimp and won tons.

The won tons are not stuffed, which may disappoint some.

For those who want excitement in their food, try Dynasties' sizzling platter plates. The combination of food, oil and sauces dropped onto a hot metal platter creates as much noise as a volcano - and almost as much splatter on the table.

The sizzling sauteed prawns, fish and shrimp ($10.50), is especially delicious. It comes with ample portions of the seafood and stir-fried vegetables, including red pepper, bok choy, mushrooms, celery, onions and water chestnuts.

The restaurant has specials for two or more people, and take-out.