Mouth Watering -- Or, How To Eat Your Way 'Round Green Lake

THERE ARE THOSE WHO RUN AROUND GREEN Lake.

There are those who walk it.

Then are those who bike around Green Lake and those who skate around it.

I usually eat my way around. If Paris was to Ernest Hemingway a movable feast, then Green Lake represents for me the portable snack: food to go for those on the go.

There are more than a dozen restaurants, hot-dog stands, ice-cream shops and takeout windows rimming the lake. And during the summer months, most of them seem to be busy.

"When the sun comes out," said Steve Boyle, owner of Greenlake Jake's (7918 E. Greenlake Dr. N.), "it's circus time. On a rainy Tuesday morning in December, it can get a little lonely around here."

Greenlake Jake's looks like a quintessential 1950s-style burger drive-in - and it once was. But although the charbroiled hamburgers are excellent, the real attraction is the enormous sit-down breakfasts served from 7 to 11:30 a.m. Monday through Friday, until noon Saturdays and until 1 p.m. Sundays.

Huge portions, Starbuck's coffee, fresh-squeezed orange juice, three-egg omelets and what may be the best corned-beef hash in the city keep the tables filled. Most items are priced at $5 or less. Shannon Byron's splendid homemade pies and caramel pecan rolls ($1.85) sell out early.

The most venerable of the Green Lake eateries is Spud Fish & Chips (6860 E. Green Lake Way N.), and many would argue that it still serves the best deep-fried fish in the city. It is certainly the most popular. Spud (usually called Spud's) was founded more than 50 years ago (at Alki Beach) and, for most of the time since, Spud served only hand-trimmed ling cod over its baskets of hand-cut French fries. A few years ago, however, a switch to ordinary cod was made. Another change: The deep-frying oil is now zero-cholesterol canola, instead of the previous combination of vegetable and animal fats.

The Frankfurter (6808 E. Green Lake Way N.) is one of a dozen hot-dog stands of that name in and around Seattle, and this one - next door to the prestigious Saleh al Lago - is one of the busiest. I like the quality of its oversized sesame buns and the juicy bockwursts under a mound of hot sauerkraut. The regular franks, however, sometimes tend to get a bit tough when held on the grill too long.

Try the oatmeal-raisin cookies and the excellent, fresh-squeezed lemonade.

Very popular for both breakfast and lunch is My Friend's Cafe (310 N.E. 72nd St.). A mondo choice for either meal would be The Potato Works, a huge pile of fried new potatoes with chunks of ham, sliced squash, tomato, melted Gruyere cheese, avocado, sour cream and an accompanying tub of Mexican salsa. It costs $3.95 for more than any reasonable person can eat (I barely finished half of the serving and I'm not even reasonable). The Mini-works, a half-portion, goes for $2.50.

Yasuko's Teriyaki (6850 Woodlawn Ave. N.E.) is a short block from the southeast corner of the lake. If you are hungry, it's worth the walk. Yasuko's serves a half chicken with an enormous helping of rice and a portion of shredded, pickled cabbage for $3.95. Even better than the chicken (which is marinated and baked, not skewered and grilled as is usually the case in most teriyaki houses) is the baked pork, cut into thick slabs and served over the rice. Same price. There are no tables; all of the food is packed to go in styrofoam boxes.

Yasuko's also serves a passable, eight-ounce New York steak for $4.75!

Right next door, incidentally, is Swiss Pastry (6860 Woodlawn Ave. N.E.), one of Seattle's better (and little-known) cake and pastry shops. They bake excellent, German-style hard rolls for sandwiches or wurst.

The Lemon Grass Bar & Grill (7200 E. Green Lake Dr. N.), was a spot I reviewed a few years ago, and was initially impressed - especially by its Phad Thai (fried rice noodles). But on subsequent visits the quality of service and presentation seems to have declined. It's still OK, and the sidewalk tables are pleasant on a warm day, but not remarkable.

Rosita's Restaurant (7210 Woodlawn Ave. N.E.) is a block east of the lake. It is a family-oriented Mexican place that is highly reliable and makes the best green tomatillo dipping sauce I've found this side of Santa Fe.

They also make a laudable hamburger.

"I don't even like Mexican food," said one friend and colleague who lives nearby, "but I go to Rosita's all of the time - just to eat their hamburgers. It's the best-kept secret in the neighborhood."

The best sun deck-sidewalk cafe spot on the lake has to be Duke's Chowderhouse (7850 Green Lake Dr. N.). Bright sun umbrellas accent a spot (formerly the Green Lake Grill) that definitely is playing with (and on) a full deck.

The clam chowder ($4.95) is rich, definitive and has won more local contests than seems fair. Caesar salads ($5.75 to $8.95) are popular, as are the Duke's hand-formed, seven-ounce cheeseburgers. Lively bar.

Guido's Pizza (7902 E. Green Lake Dr. N.), has a considerable following, both at the Green Lake location and its newer operation in the Ravenna neighborhood. Its pizzas are intended primarily to be served by the slice. My problem with that concept is that pizza never tastes better than when it first comes out of the oven. It tolerates reheating, but never benefits from it. You are better advised to purchase a whole pizza and take the box down to the lake with friends.

I have mixed feelings about the Green Lake Line Cafe (named for the trolley car that once served the area - and wouldn't it be delightful if one still did?). They serve a good cup of coffee (Starbuck's) and the prices are reasonable. But one turkey-salad sandwich I had there recently was most ungenerous and a bowl of so-so cioppino was lukewarm at best.

The Twin Teepees (7201 Aurora Ave. N.) is across that busy arterial from the northwest side of the lake. Don't try it on a used skateboard. It has a considerable following and is a Seattle landmark.

But on weekend mornings the regulars can have the Teepees packed to its sloping walls, and while they don't exactly pass the peace pipe, a surprising number smoke heavily and the circular room makes its difficult to avoid side-stream fumes. Service is congenial and sometimes slow. The central fireplace is especially cozy on winter evenings.

Saleh al Logo (6804 E. Green Lake Way N.) isn't exactly for the snack-and-run crowd, but it is open for lunch Monday through Friday, and very affordable. The half-dozen pasta specials on the menu are all priced under $10, and most are between $8 and $9. You needn't feel out of place in jogging shorts or tennis whites.

But leave the dog and Frisbee outside. ------------------------------------------------------------ GREEN LAKE JAKE'S CORNED-BEEF HASH 4 servings 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 1 1/2 medium onions, diced finely 1 1/2 medium green bell peppers, diced finely 3 medium ribs celery, diced finely 1 1/4 pounds corned beef, minced 1 tablespoon granulated garlic 1 1/2 teaspoons dried basil, crushed 3/4 teaspoon dried oregano, crushed 3/4 teaspoon dried thyme 1/2 teaspoon white pepper 2 large white potatoes, steamed, cooled, peeled and finely diced 3/4 cup beef stock or broth Oil for browning the hash

1. Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet. Add the onions and cook until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the green pepper and celery and cook 5 minutes. Add the minced corned beef, the garlic, basil, oregano, thyme and pepper. Cook 5 minutes. 2. Stir in the potatoes and beef broth. Remove from the heat. 3. In another heavy skillet, heat about 2 teaspoons of oil at a time over medium-high heat. Add spoonfuls of the hash and brown. Transfer to a plate and keep warm while cooking the remaining hash.

JOHN HINTERBERGER'S FOOD COLUMNS AND RESTAURANT REVIEWS APPEAR SUNDAYS IN PACIFIC AND FRIDAYS IN TEMPO. HE ALSO WRITES A WEDNESDAY COLUMN FOR THE SCENE SECTION OF THE SEATTLE TIMES. MIKE SIEGEL IS A TIMES STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER. CECE SULLIVAN OF THE TIMES FOOD DEPARTMENT TESTED THIS RECIPE.