Barbecue Not Primitive At Caveman Kitchen

The Caveman Kitchen, 807 W. Valley Highway, Kent (two miles south of the Boeing Space Center). 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily; 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday. Checks accepted; no credit cards. Orders to go. 854-1210. ------------------------------------------------------------

The Caveman Kitchen is a throwback in more than name alone. In a part of the world that is rapidly becoming overwhelmed with space industry and high-tech warehousing, it stalwartly remains what it has been for 20 years: a smoky little shack on the side of the road that serves barbecue. Fine barbecue.

All of the Caveman's meats and fish are smoked over applewood. Cords of it are somewhat haphazardly stacked around the tiny building, partly for convenience and partly, it's said, to protect the restaurant from cars that come careening off the highway.

Most importantly, the wood lends everything it envelops a mild but piquant flavor. It's a smoke with character - strong, but never overpowering enough to cloud the natural flavors of the food.

It's especially effective with the salmon. The fish is moist but flaky, with a slightly underlying sweetness. The salmon dip, $4.79, is served cold on a fresh, crusted french roll, a bit of mayo and a side of hot au jus concocted of fish bouillon.

The simple dip on its own is delicious - a downright drinkable broth - and a much better complement than a barbecue sauce. But a recent sampling found the BBQ beef sandwich, $2.29 and $4.49,

lacking. Too much roll and not enough beef.

The Caveman has several other sandwich selections including the Dinosaur Poor Boy, $2.39, $3.89 and $4.79; BBQ and Missouri ham, $4.29; chicken, $2.29 and $4.39, and a Polish sausage (hot or regular) and pork sandwich, $4.39.

The Caveman's smoked meats, sold both by the pound and as dinners, are easily the most popular items, and rightfully so. The pork, $7.90 a pound, is a long meaty spare rib, so succulent it slides off the bone into your mouth. The beef, also $7.90, is a short rib, pink and flavorful, although a little fatty.

The chicken comes whole or halved, $6.79 and $3.99, and is not sauced, which is all the better. The skin is a dark, crisp brown - you'll want to eat it despite health warnings - and the meat moist and juicy, truly digit-licking good.

Dinners include potato salad, roll, and beans that are sweet and generously embellished with onion and bacon.

Other side orders include cole slaw, chili, tossed salad, bootlegger pudding and apple melt.

The only truly weak aspect of the Caveman's fare remains the barbecue sauce, as bland and industrial as the Kitchen's surrounding neighbors. It just doesn't do much more than cover the meat. But if sauce is important to you - and it should be - you're advised to ask for the meat dry and bring your own.

Seating is al fresco - picnic tables - or in your car. Watch out for hungry chickens. In addition, the friendly folk at the Caveman also custom-smoke meats and fish and cater.

For a hut with a stone-age tag, this place is pretty civilized.

Restaurant reviews are a Wednesday feature of the South Times section. Reviewers visit restaurants unannounced and pay for all meals. When they interview restaurant management and staff, they do so only after meals and services have been appraised.