Chilean Bargains: They're Everywhere

Things are anything but chilly in Chile. In fact, it's late summer and the vineyards there are ripening as another harvest approaches. That will put the Chilean wine industry approximately six months ahead of us, where harvest isn't until fall.

But that isn't the only advantage the Chilean wine industry has these days. Chile has a warm climate to nurse along the green vineyards, plenty of water from the Andes and massive wineries cranking out abundant wines that sell for very reasonable prices. In addition, Chile has a willing wine market eager to buy up its very drinkable chardonnays, cabernet sauvignons and sauvignon blancs.

I have been writing about and recommending many Chilean wines for several years, as they have become a major force in the world market. However, it wasn't until recently, while on a trip to South America, that I took time out to visit a few of the wineries that produce some of these excellent wines.

Chile was a great surprise to me. I had previously traveled in Peru, (a true third-world country and rather dangerous at the moment) where I observed poverty and primitive conditions. But Chile, where the political climate has changed considerably, is a different story. Chileans proudly point out the many fruits and vegetables they are shipping to the U.S., the timber to Japan and, of course, the wines that are finding favor worldwide. Chile is, indeed, a country on the upswing with a growing middle class and signs of prosperity everywhere.

The happiest discovery of my trip, however, was seeing the improvements both in the vineyards and wineries. Over-cropping in the vineyards and antique equipment in the wineries was more the rule until recently. The wines, as a result, tended to be inconsistent. Now, modern technology has found its way there and many improvements are evident in grape growing. The latest vintages from Chile, many of them from the 1990 crop, are on our market. Here are some of my recommendations (with more coming in future columns):

Cousino-Macul 1990 Chardonnay, $8: I tasted this at the winery in Chile and then recently after it arrived in Seattle. The vintage was a turning point for the winery, made when it got a new press that has extracted the best of the fruit from the grapes. It shows Chilean chardonnay at its best.

Cousino-Macul 1987 Cabernet Sauvignon, $7: Chile is noted for its fruity and flavorful reds. Here is a full-bodied red that displays both good fruit and spice. And it's so drinkable now.

Saint Morillon 1990 Sauvignon Blanc, $6: Soft, clean and fresh, here is a typical sauvignon blanc from this region. This matches up nicely to our local seafood, such as salmon or shellfish.

Santa Rita Reserva 1987 Cabernet Sauvignon, $8: Many wine drinkers are well aware of Santa Rita's ``120'' cabernet, a lower-priced bottling that is high quality for the money. Take a look at the reserva, a red that spent eight months in oak and shows flavors of black cherry and vanilla.

Miquel Torres 1990 Sauvignon Blanc, $6.50: Miquel Torres of Spain was the first to introduce modern technology to Chile. His wines have shown the same style and care that is evident in the Spanish wines of Torres. The sauvignon blanc is a particularly good choice, not only for its spice, but its abundant fruit and freshly made style.

Concha y Toro 1985 Cabernet Sauvignon, $6: Concha y Toro, just south of Santiago, is one of the most beautiful of Chile's wineries (and, incidentally, open to the public). Its cabernets are outstanding and generally a very good price. The '85 offers the opportunity to enjoy an older red at such a modest price. Also look for Concha y Toro's magnums of a blended cabernet and merlot at only $6.50. It may be one of your best values in a Chilean red.

Wine by Tom Stockley appears Wednesday in the Food section of The Times.