Sprightly Wines Sparkle For Holidays

Getting nervous? Me too. The holidays are close and one should be stocked up on some sparkling wines by now.

But fear not, I've just spent the last few weeks shopping, tasting, sampling and generally making notes on bubblies for the holidays. Once you have a few sparklers stashed away in the refrigerator, it's a cinch to entertain drop-in company in great style. A bowl of salted almonds, perhaps, a little cheese and you've got the makings for a festive gathering.

Make sure the dust is off the champagne glasses and we're ready to get serious. As during past holidays, we'll begin with some affordable sparkling wines, ones that are priced reasonably for larger quantities but are dependable and well-made. Then stay tuned for some superior champagnes for New Year's.

Codorniu 1987 Blanc de Blancs, $9: Codorniu of Spain was the first Spanish sparkler I ever wrote about (nearly a decade ago). Since then I have visited the cava (winery) in Spain and sipped it over the years. The quality continues to improve. This vintage blanc de blancs, with a special price for December, is fresh and lively with a delicate slightly herbal bouquet. It is a blend of three different grapes including chardonnay, making it the only major cava to use this grape in its sparklers.

Charbout Freres Blanc de Blancs, $12: Good sparkling wines are made elsewhere in France besides Champagne. Here is an example of a bubbly from Burgundy, referred to as a Cremant de Bourgogne. The advantage of such a wine, of course, is that it is more affordable, although it is made in the same method and generally from the same grapes. This is a particularly good example - frothy, clean and crisp enough for a before-dinner sipper.

Duc de Valmer Brut, $6: Here's my nomination for the bargain of the holidays. Another French (but non-Champagne version), this comes from the Bordeaux region. While it is light in body, it is fresh, fruity and easy to drink. This budget bubbly is served on the Carnival Cruise ships as their ``house sparkler.''

Domaine Ste. Michelle Champagne Brut, $9: Just in time for the holidays, Ste. Michelle released this non-vintage, low-priced sparkler that already has sold far quicker than was expected. It is made with a blend of white grapes and pours out of the bottle fresh lively and refreshing.

Dove Canyon Brut, $5.50: I've written of this Northwest riesling sparkler a number of times, but this is the last. Because of the unfortunate demise of the business that established the label (a cooperative effort between Oregon and Washington), it will vanish from the market. But it has been one of the happiest little discoveries in a young, sprightly sparkler that goes down easily.

Grandin Brut, $6: From the Loire Valley in France comes this brisk and dry sparkler that is a blend with a high percentage of chenin blanc. It is in the extra-dry category (meaning slightly sweeter than brut) and has some pleasing fruit on the palate with suggestions of apple. It was recently named as a ``good value'' by Wine & Spirits Magazine.

Castello Gancia Brut, $7: This non-vintage sparkler hails from Italy and delivers light but crisp, citrus flavors that make it a very pleasant sipping wine.

M. Tribaut 1985 Brut, $12: Despite its French-sounding name, Tribaut is a California sparkler from Monterey County that impresses me more each time I taste it. Owner and winemaker Michel Tribaut is a transplanted Frenchman from Champagne who makes appealing, dry sparklers that have received raves all over the U.S. The brut is crisp, full-bodied and lemony. A rose, for about the same price, is very pinot noir in flavor and style. Keep your eye on this newcomer.

Wine by Tom Stockley appears Wednesday in the Food section of The Times.