Northwest Resorts -- Favored Whistler Gets Regional Competition

For years, Whistler/Blackcomb was a secret ski escape for Seattle-area skiers, but its international reputation has changed that.

Judging by early-season bookings by local travel agents, the two British Columbia mountains are still the favorite getaway destination for Puget Sound skiers. But long gone are the days of being able to secure weekend lodging on the spur of the moment.

Tight accommodations, higher prices and even the often-wet snow have some skiers looking elsewhere.

In addition to the new Silver Mountain resort in Kellogg, Idaho, one place they're looking is Schweitzer Mountain Resort in Sandpoint, Idaho. The resort is $15 million into a $100 million improvement plan that folks there say already has given it a distinctly big-time look.

Running off the list of summer additions, Schweitzer's Diane Allen mentioned a high-speed four-person chair; lights on two lifts to introduce night skiing; snowmaking equipment; a four-story lodge twice as large as the one torn down; the 82-room Green Gables hotel, with underground parking; more parking lots; improvements to the road leading to the area, eliminating three switchbacks; regraded slopes and four new runs, including a beginner's slope.

While the ticket office didn't change, the ticket prices did: up from $22 to $26 for an adult pass.

``The lift-ticket rate reflects that we're in a different league now,'' said Allen.

A three-day, lodging-lift package, including rail transportation to Schweitzer from Seattle, starts at about $310 per person, roughly the cost of most Whistler deals in the low season (before Christmas and after April 7).

The Green Gables, which will open partially Dec. 22 and fully by late January, has rooms for $86 a night, or $201 per person for three days and nights.

As glossy as Schweitzer may be, Whistler still draws interest like a magnet.

``Whistler will still be the No. 1 resort for Northwest skiers,'' said Dick Gentry of Ski-Pak, a Bellevue ski-vacation specialist.

Echoed Ken Overstreet of Schwartz Tours in Kirkland: ``Whistler just has a big draw and such a big repeat crowd. It's got the longest continual vertical drop in North America, the village is right there and the accommodations can't be beat.''

Overstreet predicted that Sun Valley, ``Seattle's sweetheart until Whistler stole the thunder,'' will return to favor this season, largely because of increased snowmaking ability and Whistler's costs.

Starting Jan. 1, Canada is expected to implement a 7 percent tax on goods and services. It already imposes a 10 percent tax on lodgings.

``So people going to places like Whistler will pay 17 percent on lodging and 7 percent on lifts,'' he said. ``It's really going to . . . make people think twice of going up there.''

The new 7 percent tax reportedly will be refundable to U.S. citizens, but the rebate system has not yet been announced.

If Pacific Northwest skiers feel Whistler is outpriced and overbooked, there are a number of options, including package deals by ski clubs, travel agencies and discount ski-card organizations.

Here's a look at a few of the Western ski areas that have reported major improvements for this season:

BRITISH COLUMBIA

-- Whistler/Blackcomb - Central Reservations, from Western Washington, 628-0982.

-- Big White - Skiers are flocking to the Okanagan for dry snow, smaller crowds and less-costly lodging. A new high-speed, four-person chair that replaces two slower triple chairs is a bonus, especially when it delivers skiers quickly to the upper snowfields. There's a new day lodge at the 700-acre area, and the $225 million Okanagan Connector Highway from Vancouver, B.C., will make the four-hour drive swifter and easier. Details: Big White Central Reservations, 1-800-663-2772.

-- Silver Star Mountain - At the area 14 miles east of Vernon, northeast of Kelowna, a new quad chair kicks off a $10 million expansion project, and it will take skiers to new runs suited for novice and intermediate skiers. For those seeking more challenge, snowcat tours to the Putnam Creek area will double the skiable terrain. Details: 1-604-542-0224.

-- Kootenays - Tempting skiers who like light snow are the skiing opportunities offered by the Kootenay Mountains, just over the Washington border north of Colville. On-mountain lodging is available at Apex Alpine, 20 miles from Penticton (1-800-663-1900) and at Red Mountain, a mile north of Rossland, 125 miles north of Spokane (1-800-663-0105).

OREGON

-- Mount Bailey - Snowcat skiing at Mount Bailey, near Diamond Lake, 95 miles south of Bend and 58 from Eugene, is still a less-expensive alternative to helicopter skiing. A trip to 3,000 vertical feet of untracked powder is appealing, even if it costs $110 (plus lunch) a day, or $295 for two days, with lodging and five meals included. Details: 1-503-793-3333.

-- Ski Ashland - If you travel all the way to Bailey for snowcat skiing, go a bit farther, to three miles north of the California border on Interstate 5, and check out Ski Ashland, a small area with a vertical drop of 1,150 feet. To fill lodges, virtually empty while waiting for the annual Shakespeare festival, operators are offering packages this winter. A day of skiing and lodging starts at $33 per person. Details: Ashland Winter Recreation Association, 1-503-482-8707; Ashland Chamber of Commerce, 1-503-482-3486.

-- Mount Bachelor - For much of the last winter, the resort chartered an Alaska Airlines plane for daily direct flights from Seattle, offering an inclusive package in hopes of getting people to the Bend area faster and easier. This year, Horizon will make daily treks from Seattle to Bend, with a stop in Portland. Two-day air-ski packages at the Inn of the Seventh Mountain, the closest lodge to the area, start at $196. Details: Central Oregon Reservations, 1-800-547-6858.

-- Timberline - The venerable lodge underwent $2 million in renovation, mostly improvements not noticeable to visitors. But an $80 room weeknights includes two lift tickets. Also ski Mondays and Tuesdays for $10. Phone: 1-800-547-1406.

IDAHO

-- Sun Valley - New snowmaking machines have been busy, ensuring a good start to the season this Wednesday. Five weeklong packages, tied to special weeks in January and February, are being promoted heavily. For a per-person package starting at about $325, skiers get seven nights lodging, parties or dances, mountain tour, races, awards, door prizes and a lift ticket good for five of six days. Details: Sun Valley, 1-800-SUN-VALY; Sun Valley-Ketchum Chamber of Commerce, 1-800-634-3347.

-- Schweitzer Mountain: Reservations, 1-208-265-4576; details, 1-208-263-9555.

MONTANA

-- Big Sky - Big Sky was rated tops for overall mountain experience among Snow Country readers. A new triple chair reaches 200 acres of terrain, spread over five intermediate trails. The area, located in Bozeman, close to Yellowstone Park, will enter the night-skiing market Dec. 26 by lighting three runs. Also, a 94-room condo/hotel opens. Details: Reservations, 1-800-858-5439.

CALIFORNIA

-- Squaw Valley - Squaw Valley is going upscale, with the Dec. 14 opening of the $100 million Resort at Squaw Creek. ``This is the year we make the transformation from a day ski area to a year-round destination resort,'' said Alexander Cushing, the area's founder and chairman.

Across the valley from the main skiing area, the resort complex features 405 deluxe rooms, three restaurants, a fitness center, three swimming pools and, eventually, a Robert Trent Jones golf course. The big appeal this winter is that two lifts were installed for ski-in, ski-out access to 45 acres of new advanced and intermediate terrain. Traverse/ski across and down and you have access to Squaw's 32 lifts, the most in the United States. The resort will operate 20 kilometers of cross-country trails.

Squaw Valley is 45 miles from Reno, just west of Lake Tahoe. A three-day, double-occupancy package at the resort starts at $401. Details: Squaw Valley Central Reservations, 1-800-545-4350; the Resort at Squaw Creek, 1-800-3CREEK3; North Tahoe Central Reservations, 1-800-TAHOE-4-U.

UTAH

-- Deer Valley - Deer Valley, just west of Park City, is spending about $6 million to give skiers access to a third mountain, Flagstaff, previously the domain of snowcat skiers. That area will be serviced by two of three new chairs installed this summer, in addition to a high-speed, four-person chair that replaces an older one. Eleven new runs have been cut in the Flagstaff area, a haven for glade skiing. Details: Deer Valley Resort, 1-800-424-DEER.

WYOMING

-- Grand Targhee - A new lodge replaces the one destroyed by fire last season. As deluxe as the new version is, the real lure is still Targhee's legendary waist-deep powder. Details: 1-800-443-8146.

-- Jackson Hole - Long considered the nation's most challenging ski area, Jackson this year has softened its image by doubling its beginners' terrain. Ten percent of Jackson's 2,500 acres are now suitable for rookies. Details: Jackson Central Reservations, 1-800-443-6931.

ALBERTA

-- Banff/Sunshine Village - Sampling the three ski areas is easier this season because a free shuttle will take skiers to Sunshine Village, Lake Louise and Mount Norquay. Lodging prices vary, but a five-day, six-night package starts as low as $234 per person, double occupancy. Details: Ski Banff/Lake Louise bookings, 1-403-762-4561.

-- Mount Norquay - The area's terrain doubles to 140 acres, with the new territory to the north of the existing slopes accessible by two fast quad chairs. The new slopes are oriented toward intermediate and accomplished skiers, with 48 percent judged moderate and 41 percent advanced. Also, 90 percent of Norquay's skiable terrain will be serviced by snowmaking machines. A new lodge was built. Details: 1-403-762-4421.