Mamma Mia, Don't Miss Buongusto

XX 1/2 Buongusto, 2232 Queen Anne Ave. N. Lunch ($3.25 to $10) 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday. Dinner ($8.50 to $16) 5:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; until 11 p.m. Friday, Saturday; Sunday 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Lounge, full liquor. Nonsmoking area provided. Reservations: 284-9040.

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Let's begin with a little Italian philosophy:

``E meglio un piatto di pasta oggi, che le polpette domani!''

It translates as: Better a plate of pasta today than a meatball tomorrow. You can find that piece of inspiration (attributed to Pulcinella, the masked trickster of the Commedia dell'arte) on the menu of Buongusto, a new Italian restaurant on Queen Anne.

So far, you will not find any meatballs - at least I didn't - but you will find some magnificent plates of pasta. And veal and pork and sausages and antipasti.

This is the kind of restaurant you have to love. It's cozy, usually crowded with neighborhood types, and run with the kind of bustling energy that indicates a lot of people involved in it are doing what they like.

Buongusto is a partnership of three talented, congenial individuals: Anna Mascio (of the venerable Seattle pasta-making family), and Roberto and Salvio Varchetta, natives of Abruzzi in Central Italy. Roberto runs the kitchen; Salvio, the dining room. Anna hosts. Anna and Salvio are engaged. The place fairly brims with affection. Sometimes you don't know whether to sing, propose toasts or cry.

Better you should eat. The food is even better than the atmosphere. Buongusto occupies space that once housed a succession of failed restaurants, most recently Le Petit Prince. Salvio is unconcerned with the commercial history.

``Queen Anne is a wonderful neighborhood. This is the best street in the city. Cars go by every day. Queen Anne Thriftway down the street draws people from all over Seattle. All you have to do is work hard, know what you are doing - and do it. Before we even opened, we had people from the neighborhood dropping in, looking around and dropping off their business cards.''

Reservations, therefore, are highly recommended. The restaurant, with about 15 tables, usually fills before 7 p.m.; there appears to be a turnover lull at around 8 or 8:30. But on weekend nights there is frequently a small line at the entry and four or five folks sitting and waiting near the door.

Buongusto is worth the wait. The first thing on the table is a basket of homemade bread (made by Melina Varchetta, Roberto and Salvio's mother; she also makes the antipasti). It's served with butter, but you can ask for a small saucer of herbed and peppered olive oil. Mama Varchetta's bread is very much like the grand Italian bread (the Como loaf) made by the Grand Central Bakery.

Which is to say, you will probably eat it all up before the first course arrives. No matter, they will give you more.

There are seven appetizers on the menu (priced from $5.50 to $7), each will comfortably feed two. This time of year, while vine-ripened tomatoes are still available, try the Mozzarella Caprese: fresh mozzarella, sliced tomato and fresh basil leaves in a light olive-oil dressing. Scooped onto the chewy Italian bread, and moistened with sips of red wine, it is practically dessert.

Other delectables: a smoky, fragrant grilled eggplant; Insulata di Mare (mixed marinated seafood salad) and imported prosciutto with ``Mamma Melina's Marinated Vegetables.''

Next order a plate of pasta - they will split an order for two of you at no charge. The Lasagna ($9.50), homemade Neopolitan style, is of course a meal in itself. In addition to the usual layers of pasta sheets, sauce, mozzarella and ricotta, Buongusto includes prosciutto and hard-cooked eggs.

The Linguini alla Pescatora ($11.50) is another main course attraction, with shellfish and calamari doused in a delicate fresh tomato sauce. Pennette Positano ($8.50) is a simple dish that shows what the kitchen can do quickly and well. Penne pasta is tossed with pan-fried zucchini, green onions and parmesan. ``And it is wonderful,'' said the woman who consumed it. ``I would offer to give you a bite but there won't be any left.''

The fish of the day varies. On one recent visit it was grilled albacore tuna topped with a ``white'' puttanesca sauce laced with imported black olives, garlic, red pepper and capers.

A couple of good meat choices would be Salsicce alla Italiana ($11.50) made with Frank Isernio's grilled sausage with fresh mozzarella and a spicey red wine sauce; and Maiale alla Puteolana ($12.50), tenderloin of pork with marinated cherry peppers and garlic sauce.

Zabaglione isn't on the menu, but it's in the kitchen and the ultimate Italian dessert.

Nice wines at good prices.

Meatballs tomorrow.