Hakka From Honolulu A Fine Culinary Bridge

Hakka from Honolulu:

a fine culinary bridge

XX 1/2 Doong Kong Lau, 9710 Aurora Ave. N. Lunch and dinner ($3.45 to $12.50) 10:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Friday; 9:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., Saturday, Sunday. Liquor license pending. Major credit cards accepted. Non-smoking area provided. Reservations: 526-8828.

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``Doong Kong Lau,'' the new sign read. ``Hakka Cuisine.''

A typical response might be: Good. Another new Chinese restaurant. But what the heck is Hakka?

The Hakka (the name means guest family - as in ``outsiders'') are a distinct and somewhat enigmatic Chinese ethnic group. They have their own language, a bridge between Mandarin and Cantonese, social and occupational customs.

It is believed that the Hakka were displaced - by war or population pressure - from northern China about 2,300 years ago. They migrated south, taking up semipermanent space wherever the ``guests'' could find room and tolerance.

Now scattered all across China, including Taiwan and Hong Kong, the Hakka retain their own dialect - and cooking traditions.

The cuisine seems to be be a happy compromise between Mandarin and Cantonese cooking. If you think Northern Chinese dishes are too spicy and Cantonese a bit bland, you'll love Hakka.

The Doong Kong Lau was opened a few months ago by Charlie and Tammy Lee and Henry and Cindy Chin. They moved to Seattle after having

operated another Hakka restaurant (of the same name) in Honolulu for 14 years.

In general, the cooking techniques and recipes are hearty, highly flavorful and robust, but without the fire-like kick of Szechwan or Hunan styles. The menu is vast, 190 items, with the Hakka specialties clearly marked.

``We use stocks, like chicken broth, in all of the dishes - not water - and the freshest ingredients,'' Tammy said. ``So there is more flavor, and it is good for you. And we don't have to use MSG.''

A good introduction to Hakka cooking would be the Tofu Casserole with Seafood ($7.95). Two-inch rectangles of tofu (bean curd cake) are stuffed with meatballs of spiced sausage, then simmered with scallops, prawns, fish fillets and sliced squid in a bubbling chicken broth laced with chopped Chinese cabbage.

The sterno fire under the steel casserole is measured to go out after the pot has been boiling at the table for about three or four minutes (Note: You can collapse a lung trying to blow it out any earlier).

``This is a classic example of Hakka home-style cooking,'' Charlie Lee said. ``One of my favorites; we have it at home all the time.''

Many of the menu items are completely familiar. The Hot and Sour Soup ($1 for a brimming bowlful), for example, looks like the usual versions of it, but at the Doong Kong Lau, it is a little less hot and filled with much more meat and vegetables than is commonly found.

Two appealing poultry choices: the Hakka Special Salt Bake Chicken ($4.95) and the House Special Crispy Chicken ($6.95). The former results in surprisingly tender, juicy sections of chicken (although the skin remains soft and white) that is a taste revelation.

The crispy version is marinated in a special Hakka sauce then gently steamed and quickly deep-fried. It is served with a tangy dipping sauce.

Some of the dishes I particularly enjoyed: Eggplant with Garlic Sauce ($5.95) was somewhat more intensely seasoned than other vegetable platters, but still not overwhelming.

Ma Pa Tofu ($5.95; diced tofu with minced pork and hot sauce) was outstanding, although I still think the Szechwan Gardens makes the silkiest Ma Pa Tofu in Seattle.

Stir-fried Shrimp with Szechwan Cabbage ($7.95) also has a lively base of pepper and seasonings, but the natural flavors of the sliced vegetables and seafood shining through - perfectly cooked to that wonderful point where the shrimp has not yet dried out, but the protein has completely solidified; it almost crunches.

There are 10 ``sizzling platter'' house specials, the kind of daring thermodynamics that makes one doubt the security of one's eyebrows, and of these I'd recommend the Hakka Special Sauce with Seafood Combination on a Sizzling Platter ($8.95) and the Scallops and Beef ($7.95), similarly presented.

I thought the Singapore Style Pan Fried Noodles ($4.95) were somewhat harsh - the curry powder could have been mellowed out with a bit more cooking - but surely acceptable.

Orange Flavor Beef ($6.95) is showing up on an increasing number of local menus. But I have yet to find anyone who makes it better than Jemmy Ma at the A & J Wok near Northgate.

Chinese restaurants are not known for the desserts, but the Doong Kong Lau makes its own almond-flavored curd cakes, tossed with pineapple chunks and a light syrup chilled with ice. This time of year it's particularly welcome.

As are the two guest families from Honolulu.