Battle Of Britain -- Exhibit Recalls Struggle In Air, Terror On Ground

LONDON - Fifty years ago the Nazi bombers screamed over this city, and the ensuing battle with the Royal Air Force decided the future of Britain.

This year special exhibitions mark those hot summer months of 1940 when great air battles and the threat of invasion from Hitler's forces dominated the lives of Britons.

The anniversary of the four-months-long battle in the sky is being noted in many museums and cities this year, but the largest exhibit is the ``Battle of Britain Experience'' at the Royal Air Force Museum in north London.

By combining the impact on the nation's domestic life with the military hardware, the exhibit brings home the effect of World War II on British civilians and soldiers alike.

The walk through this period of Engand's history begins before the war, with the diorama recreating a family picnic in the summer of 1939, with the father reading a newspaper article on the outcome of the Munich Conference, during which Germany said it would not press any more territorial claims. The next scene is of a German boy, standing proudly in his Hitler Youth uniform, listening to a speech by Hitler.

War-time scenes quickly supplant peace: A London railway station evokes the many painful separations that occurred as more than 300,000 children were sent to the country, soon after war was declared by Britain on Sept. 3, 1939.

Another scene shows a shelter erected in a garden: When covered with earth, the Anderson shelter (named after the British home secretary) would give some protection from shell fragments and bomb splinters.

An entire Operations Room at the peak of battle is re-created, with the plotting of the fierce fight against enemy air fleets coming across the English channel from newly conquered northeast France. A map on the plotting table is littered with vital battle indicators; on the back wall, a board tells the positions of squadrons.

The first bombs landed on mainland Britain May 9, 1940, and on London in a daytime raid Sept. 7.

As the air-raid siren wails in another display, a Cockney mum, Gertie, explains what life was like during the London Blitz, which lasted until May 1941 and killed more than 43,000 civilians. She is joined by a young airman, home on leave, who finds his home destroyed, and members of the fire service, an air-raid warden and ambulance nurse, among others.

The heaviest three months of bombing, from August to October 1940, left 2,696 dead and 20,000 seriously injured in London. The actual Battle of Britain, from June to October 1940, saw the RAF more than 500 fliers and 915 planes, compared to the Germans 2,662 crew members and 1,887 planes.

The Germans' decision to concentrate their bombing on London in hopes of breaking the spirit of the people and forcing Britain to surrender failed miserably, the exhibit repeatedly notes.

``Perhaps with better planning and leadership, the advantage of the Luftwaffe could have proved decisive'' a multi-media presentation claims, noting that the German aircraft outnumbered the RAF 4 to 1. Also, the RAF was losing 15-20 pilots a day.

Often repeated in displays is Sir Winston Churchill's tribute paid to the few hundred pilots from 19 nations who fought off the fleet of German bombers: ``Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few.''

But early radar that broke the German codes and quickly identified approaching aircraft, more maneuverable planes and fighting closer to home bases meant victory for the British.

The aircraft that took part in the Battle of Britain are featured in a large hall, including the Hurricane and Spitfire in a full-size reconstruction of a blast-proof servicing pen.

The museum boasts the best collection of German aircraft in the world, such as the only surviving Messerschmitt Bf 100 and Heinkel He-111. Also on display is the Messerschmitt 109, Junkers 87 and 88 bombers, and an Italian Fiat C.R. 24, which made a forced landing during the sole raid by the Italian air force.

A photographic display, paint-ings and gift shop round out the Battle of Britain Experience.

The fee for the special showing includes admission to the Royal Air Force Museum, a short walk across a parking lot. The national museum of aviation has more than 60 aircraft displayed in a 15-acre complex, with the history of 100 years of flying illustrated from before the Wright brothers to the Bomber Command Hall with more recent fighter planes.

Included in the displays is a Boeing B-17G ``Flying Fortress,'' a four-engined bomber that flew from 1937-1960, given to the museum in 1983.

An audio tour guide was invaluable to sorting out the plans and their histories.

IF YOU GO: The historic Hendon airfield, which contains the RAF museum and Battle of Britain display, can be reached via subway (take the Colindale Underground stop) or train (Mill Hill Broadway station); it's about an hour from central London. The airfield is an easy 15-minute walk from either station, or buses will shuttle to the museum throughout the summer.

The Royal Air Force Museum and Battle of Britain Experience has a 24-hour information line: 081-205-9191. The museum is at Grahame Park Way, Hendon, London; telephone 081-205-2266 or 081-200-1763. Admission is about $6 for adults; children, senior citizens and students are $3. A family of two adults and four children cost $16. The museum is open daily from April 11 to Oct. 31, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Information on other Battle of Britain anniversary events is available from the British Tourist Authority in Los Angeles, telephone 1-213-628-3525.

On Sept. 15, the date officially celebrated as the climax of the Battle of Britain, a 12-mile column of 163 veteran and modern aircraft will fly over London as Queen Elizabeth II marks the anniversary from a balcony at Buckingham Palace.