El Tapatio Serves Mexican Food Without The Tang

Call it insanity, but last week I decided to have ``girls' night out'' with my 3-year-old. Just the two of us eating Mexican food. I expect I wasn't the only one with trepidation; the people at El Tapatio in Greenwood didn't seem particularly pleased to see us. Perhaps they could divine my daughter's enthusiastic way with Spanish rice.

In any case, there we were, one of us sitting in a booster seat and busily stuffing taco chips into a water glass over the other's protests. Was it my imagination or was the waiter glaring?

Oh, well. El Tapatio seems to attract families, although it doesn't have a large children's menu or amenities. Indeed, there are only two specific children's choices: a taco, enchilada, rice and beans for $4.25, or a taco, rice and beans - my child's choice - for $3.50.

But it's also possible to feed the urchins just off the appetizer list, where a cheese crispi - otherwise known as a fried flour tortilla topped with cheese - is $3.50. In addition, El Tapatio offers seven small combos appropriate for seniors and kids, and side orders, like a taco for $1.25 or tamale for $2.

While we waited for our food - I ordered the No. 12, with chile relleno, enchilada and tostada for $7.25 - my daughter and I amused ourselves by wondering why the restaurant deemed to hang Christmas-tree ornaments from the ceiling. That, actually, was a highlight of the meal.

Alas, when our food came, I was reminded again that while there are some wonderful Mexican restaurants around, most are mediocre and unimaginative. At least El Tapatio gave me a clue. When I asked the waiter what style or region of Mexican cooking was served, he shrugged and said, ``It's from all of Mexico. It's all the same.''

Yup.

Still, other than a badly curdled flan custard, the meals weren't awful, only undistinguished. Lots of iceberg lettuce, yellow cheese, thin red enchilada sauce. Still, my daughter enjoyed her taco, perhaps because the beef, like everything else, was remarkably lacking in spices. So perhaps the kindest thing to say is if you're looking for a Mexican restaurant with bland food, this is it.

But we still wonder: Why are those Christmas ornaments hanging from the ceiling?

Restaurant: El Tapatio, 8564 Greenwood Ave. N., Seattle; 782-7545.

Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m to 10 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sunday, noon-10 p.m.

High chairs/booster seats: yes.

Children's menu: for kids 12 and under.

Non-smoking area: yes

Beverages: beer, wine, mixed drinks.

Taking the Kids appears the first and third Saturdays of each month. Seattle Times reviewers visit restaurants anonymously and unannounced. They pay for all food, beverages and service. When they interview restaurant personnel it is after meals have been appraised. They do not accept invitations to evaluate restaurants, but suggestions are welcomed.