Maple Leaf: Food And Friends Are Its Staples

XX Maple Leaf Sport Grill, 8909 Roosevelt Way N.E. Lunch and dinner ($5 to $9) 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Beer, wine. Major credit cards accepted. Smoking allowed. No minors. 523-844.

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Oh, there's a tavern in the town (in the town). And there my true love sits her down . . .

And complains about the black-bean gazpacho. That's OK. When was the last time your local tavern even tried to make black-bean gazpacho?

Last week, during a call-in show on public radio, KUOW-FM, I solicited listeners' suggestions for area taverns that served really good food. Not just good burgers; not just tolerable fish and chips; not just overloaded microwaved pizza.

Two callers touted the Maple Leaf Sports Grill. Oddly enough, earlier that same week, two Times editors on different days asked me if I had tried the Maple Leaf yet.

The small tavern has played a major cultural role in the development of American life, from the farewell speech of George Washington to the origins of our entire hotel and restaurant traditions.

And the contemporary neighborhood tavern still serves, for many of us, the same social functions as the British corner pub. It is where we find out what's happening; it's where - as the ``Cheers'' ditty suggests - everybody knows your name.

``We wanted to keep the feeling of a neighborhood tavern,'' the waitress-bartender at the Maple Leaf said, ``but at the same time provide a place where people could come in for some quality food.''

The Maple Leaf, in its present incarnation, was named for its neighborhood, a pleasant hilltop district between Lake City and Northgate dignified by a major (blue) water tower and a whopping television relay tower.

It looks like a classic 1930s-'50s bar. A row of mahogany booths refinished the color and luster of golden-brown butter; red vinyl bar stools; tasteful prints on the wall, including Hopper's classic rendering of a cafe at dawn. For many, many years, the place was known as Schudie's Tavern.

What's not so classic is a menu that includes things like Black-Bean Gazpacho ($2.75 a cup, and far too bland) and an exotic Ravioli Salad ($4.50) that was far from bland. The pasta's filling, indeed, was downright challenging.

``What's in it?'' I asked.

``Oh, that's the minced chicken with Thai chili,'' the waitress said casually. The ravioli were dressed with marinated red-onion rings, cubed jicama and blanched zucchini rounds. This was hardly counter-top pickles and hard-boiled eggs.

Another menu item caught my eye: Sausage, Oysters and Snapper Iko ($6.95).

Iko? Where had I heard that name before? Didn't Karl Beckley at the demised Green Lake Grill have an innovative lead cook who once created a dish named Rocker's Iko?

``Where did you get your cook from,'' I asked, ordering the S.O.S. Iko.

``Rip?'' she said. ``The Green Lake Grill.''

Rip is Stuart Ripley and he does not often settle for fish and chips and burgers. The S.O.S. Iko was a lively blend of its named ingredients in a tomato-creole base heavy on ground cumin. It was served with 10 rounds of the Grand Central Bakery's Italian bread.

``That's a lot of bread,'' I said.

``You'll need it,'' Pamela Compton said.

I did. The Maple Leaf is owned by Linda and Joe McDonald, who restored it (not remodeled it) after it had stood empty for five years. As one recent customer put it:

``I tried to get the Museum of History and Industry to take it over and declare it a historic site; it was such a classic example of a Depression-era tavern.''

The food, however, is up to date. The Turkey Sandwich ($5.50) is served on toasted rye with a fresh peach chutney and double slices of Gouda cheese. The Vegetable Antipasto Plate is anchored by a brisk Greek olive tapenade, marinated mushrooms, green beans and a pasta salad.

The tavern's ``Little Pizzas'' are inexpensive ($2.50) but ordinary.

The massive French Dip Sandwich, however, contained about a solid inch of thin-sliced rare beef on a toasted roll ($4.75) served with a somewhat thin (but genuine) dipping broth; i.e. no caramel coloring, low salt.

The only major disappointment was with the Pasta Primavera, the Italian cuisine's salute to spring. Granted, this has not been much of a spring, but a swallow of julienned carrots and sliced zucchini in a cream sauce does not a spring sauce make. Not at $8.95.

A good selection of local boutique ales, about eight, are available, as are a fairly-priced array of Northwest and California wines.

They make their own desserts (by Barbara Chapman, the day cook) and I can recommend, all too well, alas, the Apricot Cheesecake.

A reminder: The Maple Leaf is, after all, a tavern. Persons under 21 are not allowed, and you can expect at least some tobacco smoke, although - with overhead fans and good ventilation I didn't find that to be a problem.

Nice spot; nice history; nice vibes.