Benji's Ambiance And Food Suit The Whole Family

A grassy area with play equipment! Docks with boats to inspect! A fish-and-chips bar built in the shape of a tugboat!

It took about five seconds to realize that Benji's Fish & Chips, at the south end of Lake Union, would be a tremendous hit with our family.

And the food helped, of course. Benji's opened in 1986 on the water side of the popular Benjamin's Restaurant. Benji's operates during the warm months only, offering waterfront outdoor dining beside the whimsical gray, blue and raspberry-colored tug.

While our girls and their dad raced to the bigtoy, with its slide, trapeze bar and climbing tires, I ordered dinner at the counter.

Benji's fish and chips come in three sizes, priced from $2.99 to $4.99. Our 3-year-old had the smallest, which provided one piece of Alaska white fish and a huge offering of fries.

Her older sister and father each had clams and chips ($3.39) and white, New England-style clam chowder ($1.69 for a cup), while I chose prawns and chips ($5.49).

For non-fish-eaters, Benji's has chicken strips and chips ($4.69).

If we'd brought a blanket, we might have picnicked on the lawn (without one, diners are at the mercy of Canada-goose droppings). Instead we ate in Benji's enclosed patio area. With its white tables shaded by colorful umbrellas, it looks like a beer garden, which is fairly accurate, as Benji's serves beer and wine.

What it doesn't have are high chairs and boosters - strange since the staff says the place is popular with families.

Benji's seafood received high marks all around. It's coated with beer batter and dry Japanese bread crumbs called panko, then fried in cholesterol-free soybean oil. The result is crisp, nongreasy and very flavorful. The dill tartar sauce makes a terrific accompaniment.

The French fries received mixed reviews. Those who like them crunchy were happy; those who like them softer were not.

But everyone loved the location. After eating, Dad strolled the docks and the kids got another run at the playground. As for me, next time I want to explore the Center for Wooden Boats next door and perhaps rent a rowboat. Dreams have to start somewhere!

Restaurant: Benji's Fish & Chips, 908 Fairview Place N., 624-5709.

Hours: Monday-Thursday: 11:30 a.m.-7 p.m., Friday-Sunday: 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m.

Children's menu: No.

Nonsmoking area: No.

Beverages: Wine, domestic and premium beer.

Taking the Kids appears the first and third Saturdays of each month. Seattle Times reviewers visit restaurants anonymously and unannounced. They pay for all food, beverages and service. When they interview restaurant personnel it is after meals have been appraised. They do not accept invitations to evaluate restaurants.