Juanita's Spud Offerings Are Deliciously Consistent

Reviewing Spud Fish & Chips is a little like reviewing the Statue of Liberty. What can you say new about a much-loved institution?

For those of you heartened by consistency, Spud's Juanita store is just like it's been since George Benner opened it in 1969. Same moist, crunchy seafood coated in the same batter that's been used since the original Spud's opened in West Seattle in 1935.

For those who like change, Spud's (as everyone calls it) at Juanita has that, too. The fries, which have always been real potatoes, now come skins on. And about a year ago, Benner abandoned animal fat for deep-frying, switching to cholesterol-free canola oil.

For those who've never been there, Spud's is not the kind of place that needs a kid's menu. It has eight booths plus a couple of stools at the counter, and five picnic tables outside. Benner says about 40 percent of his business is takeout.

The menu is on one of those wall boards that combines a soft-drink ad with a message (``Have a nice day'') and a listing of the food offerings. The best seller is the Alaska true cod and chips, selling for $2.35 to $4.20 depending on size.

Other choices with chips: prawns, $4.85; scallops, $3.90; clams, $2.50; oysters, $3.25. There's also a tasty clam chowder for 90 cents a cup, cole slaw for 65 cents, and ketchup and tartar sauce for, alas, 17 cents each.

My daughters are only lukewarm about seafood; I've come to think of Spud's as their training wheels. The 6-year-old and her father each had the clams. The 3-year-old had the fish and I tried the oysters. Forgive us for loving these fried foods, but gee, they were good and we polished off every morsel.

The clams were incredibly tender. The oysters were fresh, soft inside and slightly crunchy outside without being greasy. Ditto the fish. Benner says the secret is to batter the seafood, bread it, then let it dry for an hour or so. ``It air dries a skin on the batter so when you put it in the shortening it won't absorb it,'' he says, adding ``you can even do this at home.''

True enough, but why bother when there's Spud's?

Restaurant: Spud Fish & Chips, 9702 N.E. Juanita Dr., Juanita; 823-0607. (Other locations at Alki and Green Lake are under different ownership, however the seafood is identical.)

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.

Highchairs/booster chairs: no.

Children's menu: no.

Nonsmoking area: yes.

Beverages: no alcohol served.

Taking the Kids appears the first and third Saturdays of each month. Seattle Times reviewers visit restaurants anonymously and unannounced. They pay for all food, beverages and service. When they interview restaurant personnel it is after meals have been appraised. They do not accept invitations to evaluate restaurants, but reader suggestions are welcomed.