Round Up The Hungry Ones And Try Some Cowboy Food

The atmosphere prompted talk of cowboys, the ``olden days'' when their parents were young, and pancakes, ``cowboys' favorite food.''

Any restaurant that can entertain kids without video games or large singing mice, and offer a menu and prices palatable to parents, is a four-star family restaurant.

That's the rating Kameron Cox, 6, a first-grader at Federal Way's Silver Lake Elementary, gave Pioneer Pies and Bakery's haute cuisine for the juvenile set.

We ate breakfast there on the weekend, had no waiting, fantastic kid-oriented service (Brett Dale, the waiter, brought extra napkins without being asked) and had more than we wanted to eat for about $14 for three of us. We could have ordered smaller breakfasts and been satisfied for less, but the extravagance played into the hearty pioneer theme.

The decor - a variety of antiques on rough-pine walls - fascinated the kids, Kameron and his friend, Jamie McDonald.

``Is it true this place was in the olden age?'' Kameron asked.

``Yeah, like when you were little?'' Jamie asked me. ``Good thing we aren't cowboys or maybe we'd get shot at here.''

``Not if you were after bad guys,'' Kameron said. He ordered the ``Plain Waffle Combination,'' which included an egg and bacon or sausage for $3.55.

Jamie and I ordered the ``Breakfast Special'' - two pancakes, two slices of bacon or sausage and an egg for $3.10.

Non-cowboys wanting lighter fare might consider the Lil' Pioneer Breakfast, which includes one pancake, one slice of bacon and one egg for $2.35.

While chowing down, the kids educated me in cowboy ways.

Kid highlights: The loganberry syrup ``looks like blood''; all the ``neat stuff'' on the walls.

Complaints: ``They've got skinny eggs,'' Kameron said, jabbing his fork into a sunnyside-up fried egg. ``My Mom's are easier to pick up.''

Other than that, ``This place is great,'' he said. ``I'd take my family here if I had the money.''

Restaurant: Pioneer Pies and Bakery, 31448 Pacific Highway S., Federal Way; 839-3017. (Other Pioneer Pies around the state are under different ownership.)

Hours: Sunday through Thursday: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.Friday and Saturday: 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Highchairs/booster chairs: Yes.

Children's menu: Yes; no age restriction.

Nonsmoking area: Yes.

Beverages: No alcohol.

Taking the Kids appears the first and third Saturdays of each month. Seattle Times reviewers visit restaurants anonymously and unannounced. They pay for all food, beverages and service. When they interview restaurant personnel it is after meals have been appraised. They do not accept invitations to evaluate restaurants.